Understanding top, middle, and base notes: the simplified guide
Have you ever experienced that precise moment when a fragrance instantly captivates you in a store, only to become almost unrecognizable a few hours later on your skin? This phenomenon is no coincidence. It's explained by the olfactory pyramid , a fundamental principle in perfumery.
In niche perfumery , where natural, vibrant, and complex raw materials are favored, this evolution is even more noticeable. Understanding how a perfume develops over time is essential for choosing a fragrance that truly reflects you.
What is the olfactory pyramid?
The olfactory pyramid describes the structure of a perfume and how its notes gradually unfold. A perfume is not a static scent: it is a composition in motion, comparable to a musical score played in three parts.
We can thus distinguish between top, middle and base notes , each having a specific role in the olfactory experience.
1. Top notes: the first impression
The top notes are those you perceive immediately after spraying. They constitute the initial burst of the perfume.
Role
Light, fresh and very volatile, they attract attention and give the first olfactory impression.
Common ingredients
Citrus notes (bergamot, lemon, mandarin), aromatic notes (mint, lavender), marine or green notes.
Duration
Between 15 minutes and 2 hours.
The Archives Council
Never choose a niche perfume based solely on its top note. It may be seductive, but it doesn't yet reveal the fragrance's true identity.
2. The heart notes: the soul of the perfume
When the top notes fade, the heart notes take over. They constitute the olfactory signature of the perfume.
Role
They define the main theme of the fragrance: floral, spicy, fruity, or aromatic. This is the emotional heart of the perfume, the one that lingers the longest.
Common ingredients
Noble flowers (rose, jasmine, iris), fruits, spices (cardamom, cinnamon).
Duration
Approximately 2 to 4 hours, sometimes longer depending on the concentration and quality of the raw materials.
The Archives Council
This is the stage at which you know if a fragrance is right for you. The heart notes are the ones that will stay with you for much of the day.
3. Base notes: depth and sustain
The base notes form the foundation of the olfactory pyramid. They are the most persistent and the most intimate.
Role
They fix the other notes and ensure the perfume lasts on the skin. They are what leave an imprint, a memory.
Common ingredients
Sandalwood, patchouli, amber, vanilla, musk.
Duration
From 8 hours to several days, especially on clothing.
The Archives Council
The quality of a niche perfume is often recognized by the richness and nobility of its base notes.
Why does a perfume evolve differently in different people?
One of the secrets of niche perfumery lies in the interaction between natural raw materials and the skin's pH . Every skin is unique: the same fragrance can appear soft, milky, or enveloping on one person, and drier or woodier on another.
The olfactory pyramid is a theoretical basis. But in reality, it is your skin that writes the final chapter of the perfume story.
Choosing the right niche perfume
Taking the time to observe how a fragrance evolves over several hours is essential. Test it on your skin, let it breathe, and listen to what it tells you.
At Les Archives , we conceive of perfume as an intimate, evolving and personal experience — an olfactory trace unlike any other.